Turn the connector and fix it again with your spanner. Next, solder the signal core by applying heat right onto the central opening of the contact pin. Because this core was twisted and folded back, it will more easily make contact by itself, in addition to the soldering, which is always better.
The connector forms a relatively heavy body and therefore takes up a lot of heat. So it will take some time before solder will flow. When finished, blow at it to cool the new joint. And of course DON'T MOVE IT!
Soldered leads should never "swim" in a puddle of solder. This wouldn't form a perfect electronical connection. There should always be a direct contact. Be careful not to overlook loose strands touching the wrong sides, remove or cut these.
At the backside, the soldering joint might protrude too much and as such be in the way when you want to screw home the locking barrel. Use a file to reduce this and don't forget to blow away any fine particles left, that could cause short-circuit of your precious signals.
Next, fix the cable with the 2 mm hex nut and screw home the locking barrel. If you have an Ohmmeter, check for short-circuits, otherwise you will undoubtedly notice once you install your interconnect and turn up the volume! (slowly of course).
Your cables will need some time to improve on sound quality, reckon with a few weeks. Always use your cables the same direction: an easy method to adopt is to always have your signal follow the direction of the printing on your cables.
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