Tips + Tricks zum Löten

(Übersetzung auf Deutsch folgt)

Am besten waschen Sie zuerst die Hände. Es gibt nämlich immer fett an der Haut und so kommt's kein Fett oder Schmutz an den zu Löten Oberflächen. Verwenden Sie ein mittelgroßes Lötgerät für Elektronikzwecke, 30 - 40 Watt, z.B. ERSA 30S. Dieses hier ist 30 Watt.
Weiter benötigen Sie ein scharfes Stanleymesser, einen Pfriem, einen 2 mm Sechskant Schlüssel und einen Mini Schraubendreher. 
Schneiden Sie auf sorgfältiger Weise 15 mm des äusseren Isolationsmantels ab, ohne die unterliegende Metallgewebe der Abschirmung einzuschneiden.
Entwirren Sie alle Drähtchen mit z.B. einem Pfriem.
Jetzt diese Drähtchen gleichmässig ausbreiten.
Die Drähtchen in 2 teilen, zieh diese nach einer Seite und dreh sie fest. Auf dieser Weise wird es nicht zu dick sein und kann man es leichter ins Steckergehäuse hereinschieben. Weiterhin wird das Löten zweier Draht-Ende leichter.
Gibt es weitere Abschirmung, so kann man die jetzt auch entfernen.
Cut 10 mm from the inner insulation, whereby some 5 mm remains. Do this carefully, don't cut too deep when circumcising with the knife, as the signal core shouldn't be damaged. Then pull off this piece of insulation by gently turning at the same time.
Next twist the 10 mm signal core firmly, if necessary. 
Fold back 4 mm from the end. Thus you'll prevent this core from splicing when pushed through the connector's opening.
Bend the two screen twists forward and push this assembly into the connector.
Rotate the cable slightly while pushing it in and see to it that the two screen twists end up at the backside of the connector. When half-way, use a small screwdriver to "help" these twists come out at the right location.
Also take care that the central core finishes up right into the contact pin and further into the tiny hole there. Guide it, if need be and push back strands that possibly came loose. Press the two screening twists over the small "bridge" provided for soldering and bend both ends a bit downwards.
Put something heavy like a spanner or plier over the front part of your connector. This way it steadies the connector when soldering and it takes some of the heat from your connector. Take your soldering iron as soon as it is hot and press it to apply heat to one side of the "bridge" on the backside. We advise to first apply some solder (sparingly) onto this backside of the plug and on the cable ends. When these spots will be hot enough, the applied solder will flow freely, otherwise take some more time to heat. Then the other side of this "bridge".
Turn the connector and fix it again with your spanner. Next, solder the signal core by applying heat right onto the central opening of the contact pin. Because this core was twisted and folded back, it will more easily make contact by itself, in addition to the soldering, which is always better. 
The connector forms a relatively heavy body and therefore takes up a lot of heat. So it will take some time before solder will flow. When finished, blow at it to cool the new joint. And of course DON'T MOVE IT!
Soldered leads should never "swim" in a puddle of solder. This wouldn't form a perfect electronical connection. There should always be a direct contact. Be careful not to overlook loose strands touching the wrong sides, remove or cut these.
At the backside, the soldering joint might protrude too much and as such be in the way when you want to screw home the locking barrel. Use a file to reduce this and don't forget to blow away any fine particles left, that could cause short-circuit of your precious signals.

Next, fix the cable with the 2 mm hex nut and screw home the locking barrel. If you have an Ohmmeter, check for short-circuits, otherwise you will undoubtedly notice once you install your interconnect and turn up the volume! (slowly of course). 

Your cables will need some time to improve on sound quality, reckon with a few weeks. Always use your cables the same direction: an easy method to adopt is to always have your signal follow the direction of the printing on your cables. 

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